'I like three things," announces Pietro, a bear of a man with two metal lower lip piercings framed by a lush black beard, "snow, dogs and building things." We are at a husky camp 60 degrees latitude within the arctic circle, on a bitterly cold St. Valentines day. The camp is a cacophony of yelps, barks and howls, "When you enter, don't run, just let them come up and introduce themselves," says Pietro. He's hard to hear over the din. He opens the...