CHEZ MOI.

With a group of friends I had been discussing an article by John Steinbeck. "Breakfast" he called it. It recalled an incident that for him was very significant and that had left a lasting impression on his mind Curiously, despite the title he takes only a fraction of the piece to describe the meal itself. The rest is devoted to his observations and comments on the people involved and the beauty of the Californian late summer morning. For him the three elements of the occasion will be forever linked, the people, the ambience and the food. Had any of these been missing or different the whole picture of the event would change. This particular combination made it unique, it could not have happened quite like that anywhere else or at any other time.

We all like think of ourselves as writers and so inevitably we all agreed to write about our own Memorable Meal and compare notes having done so. I searched my mind for an event that in someway had a similar structure to that recorded by Steinbeck, reasoning that in his position as a world famous writer he could easily have recalled grander occasions in the most palatial or unusual venues, and in many more obscure parts of the world. Any of these would no doubt have been memorable from most people's point of view. For him though it had been a simple outdoor meal provided by unsophisticated people on a particular day in California that had moved him so much.

To recall your most memorable meal sounds easy enough, doesn’t it? After all to qualify for such an accolade it must by definition have been at least very unusual, perhaps even spectacular. For me it should be all of these things but above all it, like the occasion that moved Steinbeck, it must be unique, unrepeatable.

This criterion raises something of a problem though. The older you are, the more and greater experiences you have to choose from and, oh yes, it is perfectly true to say that as you grow older your memory does play tricks on you. It is often easier to recall events long past than those of more recent origin. It becomes even more complicated if your lifestyle, or business life required or provided you with the opportunity to travel, meet famous people and experience meals and events in places you would not normally expect to be. Most of these could easily qualify for THE title.

The Rainbow Room for dinner high above New York City can only be described as spectacular. Millions of coloured sparkling lights in fantastic constellations can be seen in any direction you choose to look. The lofty Connaught Hotel in London for breakfast with it’s quiet confidence and air of superiority. Beef at Simpsons in The Strand, Rules in Maiden Lane where the Edwardian comfort now appears somewhat faded but still attractive, The Ivy where Politicians past and present join the thespians, each performing their own particular acts and making sure they are seen to do so. Smart parties on the great rivers of London, Paris, New York and Budapest. Feasts in the caverns beneath the a great Champagne House in France, buffet in the Embassy in Budapest, being watched and watched over in Warsaw. Each of these and many others in a lifetime of travel and privilege has it’s own individual and peculiar flavour with wonderful memories of superb food, towering wines, interesting people and spectacular venues.

Should I choose one of these as my candidate for the title?. Steinbeck could doubtless have detailed many more and greater experiences, but he didn’t! He chose the early morning in California, unsophisticated people and basic food. He marvelled at the beauty of the morning, savoured the food and became for a short while one of the group and then gave birth to a piece of brilliant descriptive writing as only he could. But why did he choose this particular event? I believe that it was because it was unique.

So I nominated an event that was for me just as unique. It took place in the early spring of nineteen eighty-three, in a place that was special, with people who were very important to me and a meal that was quite simply, unforgettable. It was the celebration of our Silver Wedding Anniversary. The venue was our own home, in Hertfordshire, England. The people were family and close friends, the meal, created, prepared and cooked by my wife, all combined to create what became not just the most memorable meal of my life but also the most memorable day…so far.

Everyone seemed to arrive at the same time, their pleasure in seeing one another obvious for all to see. Hugs and kisses, words of congratulations and some generous and thoughtful gifts showered upon us, male and female voices reverberated around the house exchanging news. Even the weather caught the mood of the moment and the sun shone warmly through the trees, bathing the house and gardens in bright yellow light.

Kier Royale and Buck’s fizz will get any gathering off to a flying start, offer canapés dips and crudités add some very light, carefully chosen, unobtrusive music, stand back and listen. The rising buzz of conversation and bursts of laughter assure you that your own feeling of well-being is being reflected to everyone around you. The warm smell of cooking stealing though the door of the kitchen sets everyone’s appetite springing into life demanding satisfaction.

The meal was a triumph of love, creativity, organisation and skill.

Mackerel pate with melba toast that, as you removed it from the centre display, whispered confidentially the secrets of what was to follow. The main course of Poussin cooked to an old Normandy recipe, the smell of which made your mouth water in anticipation. Vegetables perfectly cooked and looking as fresh as vegetables should rather than the cardboard cut-outs that pass for vegetables in many restaurants these days. All tantalised the palate, satisfied the appetite but left enough room for a sweet trolley that almost defies description.

Chocolate, fruit, cake, jellies trifles, a cornucopia of every treat you ever had seemed to be there. Then nuts, fresh fruit, each piece carefully chosen and a selection of cheeses with biscuits plus, of course the whitest crispiest crunchiest celery you ever heard or tasted.

The wine was mostly a very crisp, dry white wine but for these who preferred it a light red Beaujolais was available and with the sweets a Sautern. To finish the meal a vintage port or brandy with for those who smoked, and many did then, a fine Havana Cigar. Freshly ground coffee with the smoothest cream completed the feast, it had lasted just over three hours. The memory has lasted ever since.

It wasn’t planned but it was I suppose bound to happen. Among the fifty or so guests were enthusiastic and very accomplished after dinner speakers. They decided to “Thank our Hosts" "Compliment the Chef" and as one of them put it "Generally ingratiate themselves to secure the invitation to celebrate your Golden Anniversary”. Amid much laughter and affection they all went their different ways and suddenly the house was silent, the Sun withdrew to hide again behind the clouds, the day was over.

I had never before recorded these events on paper though I have of course spoken of them many times and will surely do so again. I doubt that I have done any sort of justice to the wonderful memory of that unique day or to the excellence of the food. Certainly I can think of only one further event that could in any way challenge this as my most memorable day and that possibility is a couple of years in the future, sadly some of the guests will not be able to attend in person, I'd like to think though, they will be there in spirit.