The Tao of surfing

The shifting constant
Made complex to simplify, a paradox in form
the Iteration and breaking of the waves
Order out of chaos, the shape of the world as a reflection of the soul jagged and raging
Exhausted but still with the urge for constant exploration

The waters have me, drunk like too much sake drank in haste
Losing the ability to stand
Wetsuit made heavy by the barrage of elements
The sweet intoxication between Ecstasy and drowning
Half remembered dreams flood my mind and hamper my body when limbs need instruction most

This remote dimension has been touched, but is fleeting both interal to the id and limitless as the sky
It shines into the very heart of my being like the sun
About to be consumed by the eclipse, enshrined with a hollow moon which fakes its self in posture and remorse, while wanting to sing of loves delight
The limits of the brain can only grasp at this
I am forever falling short of my completion

Such a leap of conception
Is found, boundlessly in the waves
Where harmony is within the self and the ferocity of the sea
Where object and desire disolve