Florida Keys

 

Wed. March 2, 2022- Estero, Florida.

 

        We had arisen early, on this sunny Florida morning in Winter. We were headed south and east to the Florida Keys. The traffic here in Estero and Naples was heavy. This is “season” hereabouts and the population virtually doubles for a few months in Winter.

 

       Back roads led us to Rte. # 75 South and onto the fabled “Alligator Alley.” It is so named because in the earlier part of the last century, the road across the wild Everglades wasn’t much. There was no fencing along its right of way. The multitude of alligators, who live in the region, often wandered across the primitive roadway. Quite a few got run over and killed for their dalliance. The others were great draws for the tourists. Now, you see them basking in the sun,  along the banks of the drainage canals, when the temps are in the high seventies. Any hotter temps and they submerge themselves in water, letting only their snouts break the surface for air.

 

       There is a uniqueness about the Everglades that is palpable. It is a wilderness that dates backs many thousands of years. Clumps of palm trees, sitting on hummocks of grass, are island in the stream of flowing grass. All manner of wild animals prowl freely, feeding on anything they can catch. Panthers, bears, alligators, Burmese Pythons and other killer species compete with the deer and small game.

 

       As we approached the eastern coast of Florida, we could see the raised platforms of the North/South expressways, running down through Fort Lauderdale and Miami. We had intended to exit short of this congestion,  and follow and more rural Rte. # 27 South. But, we were letting the GPS system guide us and she missed the turn. The traffic was heavy on the Miami expressways, but manageable. It was after the morning rush hour and most people were at work. The expressway led us to the very bottom of Florida, Florida City. There, we picked up Rte. # 1 South and the “Overseas Highway.” It would lead us about 40 miles onto the most northern of the Keys, Largo. The low-lying sedge and grasslands, along the coastal portions of the road, were filled with birds in flight. Egrets, brown Pelicans, blue herons and many others flighted wonders nestled safely in this huge avian refuge. It was also the beginning of the single lane “conga line” that would lead us in a few days to Key West, some 100 miles south. It wouldn’t be unusual for a retired couple from Illinois, in a camper truck,  to be traveling ten miles under the speed limit, with a trail of two hundred cars fuming impatiently behind them.

 

         Key largo, is urbanized. Stores, hotels, restaurants and other places of business line the narrow key. We sought out and found our hotel, the Pelican group of cottages, a few miles down the Key. It was too early, to move in, so we checked in and then set off to “see what we could see.”  Much of the keys are only a few hundred yards or less in width. Often, you can view the Gulf of Mexico out one window and the Atlantic Ocean out of the other, at the same time. The tide was in, so the seas appeared in a rich violet blue. The swaying palm trees and rafts of boats gave the area a nautical appearance. The Swannenkamp State park is located here. It is a marine wonder land, toured by glass bottom boats and snorkelers. Fishing is big here too and was the original major attraction of the Florida Keys.

 

      A brief stop at the “Pinecrest Café” was wonderful. Great Cuban coffee, with some awesome pastries, was appreciated. The day was getting long and we were tiring. We repaired to our bungalow and moved in. The resort advertises itself as “Old Florida.” They got that right. The fixtures and room furniture hadn’t been repaired since the 1950’s. Still, the beds were comfortable and the bathrooms, clean. We were staying in this elegant shamble, at $300 a night, because everything south of here ran from $700- to $1,000 a night in Key West. And even at these extravagant rates, you couldn’t find a vacancy.

 

 

       The hotel clerk had recommended the “Bayfront Bistro” nearby, for lunch. It is a great pick. Sitting on the second story of this small restaurant, we looked out on the azure blue of the Gulf, as we downed some wonderful she crab soup and a very good Caesar salads. After lunch, we settled in to watch the Ukraine run up on the news. God bless those poor souls. We carried a glass of cabernet down to the gulf-side dock and sat in the sultry breeze, enjoying the visage of Florida in Winter. A German couple sat near the water’s edge as their three children played happily in the sand.

 

           Later, we cleaned up and walked over to Georgio’s Café for dinner. It is small, and features Italian cooking. The pasta Faggioli and garlic bread were awesome. We had high hopes. The waiter soon squelched that. He screwed up the dinner order. We just paid the tab and walked on home. It wasn’t worth arguing with challenged people on a nice night. We settled into read. It had been a long day.

 

Thursday, March 3, 2022 Key Largo, Fl.

 

         We were up early and had bagels and coffee in our room, before setting south to Key West. The traffic on Key Largo and Islamorada was conga-line slow. You just had to be patient and wait it out, until things started to move. South of Islamorada, the road starts driving across any number of scenic bridges, where the Gulf and the Atlantic claim your visual attention. It really is beautiful here. The scenic denouement is the “seven-mile bridge.” It is a series of bridges, from islet to islet, approaching Key West. The sun was just rising and the sparkle from the surrounding waters was almost magical in appeal.

 

      The GPS system was leading us into the busy eight square miles of Key West. Long a home of pirates, iconoclasts and other independent souls, the “Conch Republic” is today a tourist magnet that draws people in from everywhere. Hotel Row, about two miles from the center of town, is now a commercial haven of stores and  restaurants. Most visitors stay out here because it is cheaper and easier than trying to navigate the narrow, crowded streets of the old town center.

 

      The GPS led us on a nerve-wracking tour, to a parking garage that apparently no longer existed. One lot attendant said “$40 to park.” Some of the old pirates still apparently lived here. Inadvertently, we followed a van through opening metal gates, into a complex surrounding the “Truman Little White House.” When last we had visited, we had toured the place. It was the Admiral’s quarters of an old USN sub base. Then President Harry Truman has used it as a Winter get away from Washington. Now, the place sits in a complex of housing units surrounding the old residence. We were temporarily locked inside the compound, until we followed another van through the transmitter-opened metal gates.

 

      The GPS locked on to another parking garage and we made our way over to that garage on Grinnell St., parking on the top row. The place was full up by 10 A.M. It was a gentle one-mile walk over Eaton St. to Whitehead, and then down to the “Conk Train” station at Mallory Square. We booked ourselves onto the next train tour and then wandered over to the newly restored Key West Mall, settling in for some delicious Cuban Coffee and pastry.

 

      The Conch Train is like a "toonerville trolley.” The small red train is towed along by a Train car engine with several rows of open, covered  seats. We had booked our seats on-line for #35 each. In person, tickets are $50. It was a pleasant one hour and fifteen-minute ride up and down the busy streets of Key West. A Norwegian Cruise Line ship had docked that morning. That meant that about 3,500 additional tourists were dumped onto busy Duvall Street. The Engineer and tour guide did his best to explain Key West’s colorful history and the meaning of all of its landmarks. Passing by the huge, painted buoy, that is the southernmost point in the U.S., we noticed a line of several hundred people. All of them were waiting to have their picture taken surrounding the famous buoy. Duvall Street was chock a bloc crowded. The many restaurants were SRO, as tourists had an early beer, some conch chowder or a poor boy sandwich. It was 84 degrees and sunny out. Some of the visitors were sporting a bright red, lobster glow. Others were already yawning from their day’s walking.

 

        After the tour, we walked over to Mallory Square. The Cruise ship was berthed there. Later in the day, at sunset, musicians, entertainers, and people from all over would gather here to enjoy the magic of the setting sun. It is a tradition here, every day. These two aging tourists were starting to tire as well. We walked slowly down Caroline street, in pursuit of our car in the municipal garage. A few stops along the way, gave us a chance to watch and enjoy the horde of tourists flowing up and down the streets. The colorful Key Lime Pie bakery featured a small cook, in a white apron, out front. He was holding a Key Lime Pie. Tourists took advantage, to get their picture taken with this colorful visage. We also saw close up the many residential structures that were being restored. Most were of the “Queen Anne” variety in style. The foot print of a bldg. in Key West is worth a fortune.

 

       Finally, after 2P.M. . we found our car, paid the garage fee and set off for Key Largo. The scenic ride back was equally as slow. The retired Illinois coupled, in the camper, must be heading back as well. Cars bunched up, in slinky like chains. The going was slow. Surprisingly, there were few knuckle heads trying to jump lanes and pass everyone. That was probably partly because of the string of Monroe County Sheriff’s cars parked along the roadway. Most of them were unmanned, but “you never know.”

 

      On Islamorada, we stopped at the "Lazy Daze Tavern." It sits on the ocean side of the road and has a great view of the Atlantic. We settled in. The Conch chowder here is wonderful. Everything else, not so good. We watched a waiter feeding the Pelicans on the seas-side dock. The ungainly birds were squawking and cheeping as they fought for scraps.

 

 

       We rejoined the automotive conga line for the slow crawl across Islamorada. It was getting later in the afternoon and the  “go home traffic” was considerable. Finally, we reached our cottage abode at Pelican’s nest. A good sized, vodka martini followed me down to the beach, where we sat sea side and enjoyed the peaceful visage of late afternoon. It was idyllic. We were glad that we were here together. Later, wine and cheese accompanied our reading, as we settled in for the night. It had been a nice day in the tropics.

 

Fri. March 4^th, 2022- Key Largo, Fl. 

 

       We were up early, watching the t.v. news. It wasn’t good. We prepped for the day and then walked the twenty yards, next to our place, to a local legend. “Mrs. Mac’s Diner” was something out of the 1940’s. Inside the small diner, with a seating of  eight tables, was a colorful array of truckers license plates from all over. The stools along the diner bar had been sitting there for ages. We settled in to a booth and ordered some great Greek omelets, with a potato casserole and a biscuit. It was comfort food at its best. Mary had mentioned to Jackie, the waitress, that it was my 73^rd birthday. She surprised us with a slice of delicious Key Lime Pie and a candle. Such is the stuff of great meals. A few hundred yards down the road sits another and newer “Mrs. Mac’s” diner, to accommodate the hordes who come in daily. We were glad that we had come.

 

      After breakfast, we sat on the beach for an hour enjoying the lazy pace and the beautiful surroundings. Sometimes, doing nothing is pretty good. Later that morning, we drove over to Swannekamp State Park, on Key Largo. The $10 admittance fee allows you entrance into a place where campers, beach goers, kayakers and snorkelers all gather daily. It was windy out. The red tide had drifted in. That meant no snorkeling, and no tours of the underwater park, in glass bottomed boats. We sat for a time enjoying the silence near the sea. A large Tokay Lizard walked by. They are ungainly in appearance and somewhat primordial. From the Park, we drove back north, along the key into the swamp-like refuge heading to Florida City. It is a lonely but beautiful expanse. I wouldn’t want to break down here. We were tiring, from the last two day’s driving, and headed back to the nest.

 

Later in the afternoon, we read on the beach, until a light sprinkle chased us indoors. A vodka martini accompanied the early news programs. Then, we dressed and returned to “Mrs. Mac’s” for dinner. Fresh Mahi Mahi, with rice and black beans and coleslaw made for a delicious repast. I am glad we didn’t have a scale anywhere nearby. It was still lovely out, as the sun was setting. We dragged a few glasses, of a very good cabernet, down to the beach. We sat out on the dock, enjoying the sunset. Two twenty-something women from Minnesota joined us for drinks. It was a pleasant conversation with two bright young women, a nice way to cap off the day. Sleep came early to two, tired travelers.

 

Saturday, March 5^th, 2022- Key Largo, Florida

 

     We were up at 6:30 A.M. We had coffee and bagels in the room. It was windy, with a light sprinkle outside. We carried a cup of coffee to the dock. The Minnesota girls were in swimming. We sat for a time, enjoying the morning sun and breeze. A couple from London were enjoying the morning with us. His cockney accent stood out. Then, we packed up checked out by 9 A.M. Following Rte. #1 North, we crossed the avian preserve into Florida City. There, we headed west and north. The entire area is a garden center. Florists, garden suppliers, and farmers were everywhere about on Krome Rd. North. It was unusual for us to see such rich alluvial soil. Much of SW Florida is the dried earth type, suited only to citrus crops.

 

     North of there, we crossed onto Rte # 41, the original “Alligator Alley.” The north side of the road followed a deep irrigation canal. Along its length, we were to see several “airboat ride” centers, an attraction for the Miami crowd. Every one of them had people waiting to get the ride. Then, we passed into the Everglades. I was again struck with the isolation of the area. Vast regions of wilderness, inhabited by wild animals and absolute quiet. Here and there, a Mikosuckee Indian home announced that some few people lived and prospered in these environs. 

 

     We were headed for Everglades City on Rte. # 29.Along the way, many pickup trucks had pulled over, allowing the occupants to fish in the drainage canals. Some were tourists looking for alligators. After a time, we turned south onto Rte. # 29 and crossed into Everglades City. It is a small town, with a storied history. Many famous people, presidents and writers like Hemmingway, had come here to fish. The local Rod and Gun Club has pictures of the famous on its walls. We were driving through the town to Chockolosee, a community south of town. There, we found the famed “Havana Café.” Scores of cars and fishermen were everywhere around. We found a space and settled in. The quaint little café has an open, arboreal café area where people sat and ordered wonderful Cuban meals. A singer was strumming his guitar and entertaining the diners. We sat at a  picnic table. The waitress promptly delivered a wonderful blackened Mahi Mahi, with black beans and rice. It was delicious. Even the obnoxious and over bearing douche bag next to us couldn’t dampen the pleasure of the meal.