The Glittering Prizes

Gorgeous acrobatics

I’ve been speaking to the designers at the Edinburgh branch of the ACJ (Association for Contemporary Jewellery) who are currently preparing for their inaugural exhibition as a collective. Joanne Garner, co-ordinator of the Edinburgh branch, talks about what they’re trying to do:

“Since the Edinburgh branch of the ACJ was formed eighteen months ago we’ve been working away with regular meetings to get more out of ourselves as both creators and small-businesses. Being a jeweller can be an extremely solitary existence and running an exhibition together allows us to have a bigger impact on the scene, hopefully both attracting more interest from collectors as well as reaching out to fellow jewellery designers in Edinburgh and making new contacts.

“Quite often, galleries charge up-to 100% commission on pieces, which gives buyers an un-realistic idea of prices. Framed Gallery have worked with us on a different model which, while giving us extra curatorial control, has also been extremely supportive in terms of costs and promotion.”

The two young proprietors at Framed seem a canny mixture of hip-aesthete and successful businessmen. Both Neil and Alan Connell Forgie have worked extensively in the arts industry, and want to create a space that is unpretentious. Somewhere anyone can come and find pleasure in art, whether or not they’re ‘in the know’. This business creative approach has seen some wonderful presentations already. The Too Much Fun Club street-arts collective staged an exhibition at Framed in October heralded by models, break-dancers, gorgeous acrobatics and trapeze-artistry. Over 200 people attended the opening and more people are popping-by every day.

The ACJ was founded fourteen years ago to ‘foster discussion, debate and critical review amongst its members’, mainly practising artisan jewellers but also related practitioners and collectors. As a member-led branch system, it takes the drive of local members to push their ideas through. Designer Jen Cunningham tells me that she wanted this exhibition to be something a bit different, to promote local designs and to remind people that there’s far more choice off the High Street than on:

“Next July, ACJ Edinburgh are planning a themed exhibition. The most creative ideas often come out of a dark period and I think this recession is no different. Most artists supplement their income with other work; if this other work dries-up that forces the mind and soul to focus on the creative work that they can have control over.” Jo chips-in, “There’s a quote I love by Jack White, ‘telling yourself you have all the time in the world, all the money in the world, all the colours in the palette, anything you want – that just kills creativity’. We have limited resources and a deadline, that forces us to make decisions which guide our pieces.”

Dorothy Hogg MBE

The other jewellers exhibiting are: Lisa Arnott, Jaimie MacDonald, Caroline Cloughley, Nicola Turnbull, Jessica Howarth, Claire Roche, Claire Wright, Helen Chalmers and Moira Warren. They hope to continue the extraordinary vibrancy of previous Framed Gallery exhibitions and lots of people have been contacting Jo already wanting to get involved. Star guest on the night will be celebrated jewellery designer and educator Dorothy Hogg MBE, previous Artist in Residence at the V&A and head of Edinburgh College of Art’s jewellery and silversmithing department for 20 years, who says, “I had the pleasure of meeting the organisers of the first Edinburgh ACJ pop-up jewellery exhibition. They are a very impressive group determined to place the work of ACJ artist jewellers firmly on the Edinburgh map. Their first show is a pop-up exhibition showing the fresh work of eleven makers. Their vision of a new context in which to view the work of jewellers has an exciting ‘off the plinth’ approach.” Something bright is glistening in the wintry air.