Winter in the Adirondacks

Winter, in upstate New York, is a cross country skiers delight. The snow cover is usually good. There are lots of mountains and high forests to glide through and admire the scenery. We often ski with groups of friends and finish up somewhere, at a cozy Inn for dinner and companionship. It is a very sociable and enjoyable way to pass the Winter. Our cross-country ski club had made plans for a ski weekend in the Adirondacks, at the Garnet Hill Lodge, in North River, N.Y. We had been there before and were greatly looking forward to another enjoyable visit. It was January and the middle of a cold and snowy Winter. We welcomed the diversion. Finally, the big weekend arrived. We had packed and readied all of our gear by Thursday Evening.

 

On Friday morning, at 7 A.M., friends picked us up in their Range Rover. We had lashed all four sets of skis and poles onto a roof rack, so that we would have a little more room inside the vehicle. It was snowy, cold and icy. We drove for 30 minutes on Rte. #90 E., to the Pembroke exit of the N.Y. State Thruway. There, we got off and found the "Truckstop" Restaurant. It was here, that we were to meet the members of the Edelweiss X-Country Ski Club. We were going to travel in a caravan, to the frigid North country of the Adirondacks. We had a light breakfast, amidst happy chatter, and soon set out eastward, on the New York State Thruway. Several cars and a few tractor trailer rigs had already slid off the road, attesting to the road's icy surface. Proceeding carefully, we drove east to Utica and got off at exit # 31, where we picked up Rtes. # 8 & # 12 N.

 

While in Utica, we had stopped briefly for fuel. There weren't going to be too many service areas up ahead. The north country can be remote in the Winter. At the Village of Speculator, we turned off onto Rte. #8 E. The road here was blocked for 30 minutes, by a big rig that had slid into the ditch. It was a reminder that in these environs, carelessness could be life threatening.

 

Finally, after a journey of 8 hrs., elapsed time from Buffalo, we reached North River, N.Y.. We found and turned left onto Garnet Hill Rd. The winding ascent was slippery and some of our group had difficulty mounting the final crest, into the Garnet Hill Lodge Parking lot. Four-wheel drive is a definite advantage in these hills. Most of the club had arrived at the same time, so "check in" was a little chaotic. We were assigned to the SkiHaus, on the Forest Ski Trail, about a half mile into the woods. We borrowed the Rover and drove down the Hill. A large Pepsi truck was blocking the way, so we backed up to let him by. He proceeded to slide into the ditch, amidst a lusty hail of colorful invectives. We were sympathetic but unable to help.

 

At the Ski Haus, we found out, to our chagrin, that we didn't have a key. We had to hike the half mile up to the lodge and then walk back down. It was an inauspicious beginning, but we didn't mind. We were here and intended to enjoy our stay. It was cold and snowing heavily. We finally settled in, unpacked our gear and dressed for skiing.

 

The trail surface was perfect, with lots of powdery snow. We skied steadily for an hour, before the darkness chased us indoors. The rhythmic stretching, of the long muscles of the legs, felt wonderful after the long and cramped ride.Skiing at night, in these woods, is beautiful. But, caution is advised. You can easily become lost. Darkness in the Adirondacks is an inky shade of black. We finished up as the light faltered and then stowed our gear in the room, changed for dinner, and drove up to the Main Lodge.

 

Garnet Hill Lodge is a large two-story log cabin, with 20 guest rooms on the second level. The first level holds a large fireplace area, dining tables, Kitchen and foyer. A pool table, ping pong table and T.V. room provide added diversions. It is very rustic and wonderfully warm and cozy. The Lodge itself sits on a hillside, far above a mountain lake. The vista, from the many windows of the Lodge, is scenic and impressive. Our Innkeepers, George and Mary Heim, were happy to have us as guests. They were warm and gracious to us and made us feel welcome in their home. The Ski Club had gathered in one of the rooms, for mood adjusters, before dinner. At 7:45 P.M., we joined our friends in the Dining Room.

 

Caesar Salad, Potato & Leak Soup and Cohoe Salmon made for an enjoyable repast. After dinner, we sat near the fire and chatted until after 10 P.M. There is something about sitting in front of a blazing fire, in a large open hearth, while the winds howl fiercely outside, that appeals elementally, to the primitive in each of us.

 

 

It was getting late, and we were tired. We bundled up and set out for our outpost in the woods. It was cold, at 8 degrees, and snowing heavily. The Roads were icy and treacherous. We turned in, tired with the day. It was quiet here in the woods by ourselves. The wind outside howled like a Banshee's wail and the snow swirled around us, now all alone in the darkness of the high Adirondack Forest.

 

The next morning, we arose early and dressed for skiing. The groomers, on their all-terrain vehicles, were already out at 7 A.M.. About a foot of new snow had fallen overnight. The snow was fluffy, white and frosty. It looked like a setting from a Currier & Ives Engraving. It would be a great day for skiing. At 8 A.M., we drove to the lodge and breakfasted on some wonderful blueberry pancakes. Everyone was cheerful and expectant of a good day's run through the woods.

 

Most of the ski club set out on the trail that led down towards 13th Lake. This was too many people for us. Conga lines of skiers can have a "slinky effect" and jam up in the woods. A group of about 10 of us, skied the closer and less difficult "4-H" and "Old Faithful" trails, for about 90 minutes. It was a nice easy run through the forest.

 

The ski conditions were perfect. The sun was out and shining brightly. Although cold, it was a beautiful day in the high forest. At about 10:30 A.M., we stopped at the Ski Center, for a break. We had coffee and dried off by the fire. The warmth of the metal, pot-bellied stove felt good. Cross country skiing is a lot of work. Even with new-age polyeurethane longjohns, sweat soaks through your clothes. After a time, it turns cold against your body. We warmed up, chatted jovially and then set out for more skiing. We skied easily around the picturesque Pond area and then back past the Ski Haus, to the 4-H Trail. There, we started climbing the Blue jay Trail. We hoped fervently that it would take us back to the main Lodge. It did, but it was an effort. We made several, arduous, herringbone climbs up steep hills. When we finally reached the parking area, it felt like a scene from "Deliverance." We were much relieved and very tired.

 

We joined friends for lunch. Clam chowder and a Tuna sandwich tasted pretty good, after our vigorous caloric burn. Afterwards, some of us gathered by the fireplace again and played Trivial Pursuit. Others, watched a football game in the TV. room. Several intrepid souls set off for the "Down The Mountain" Run. We hadn't taken it in the morning, because the roads were too slippery. The buses wouldn't be able to come and pick us up. Normally, this run is one of the highlights of the trip. For about 2 hrs., you get to ski down the mountain, through a series of gently winding trails. Farms, with aging barns and the occasional draft horse, majestic snow-covered conifers, and icy streams, all whisk by in a Currier and Ives Tableau. Upon completion of the run, you end up several miles away from the Lodge and many hundreds of feet downhill. It is necessary for a bus to come and collect everyone, for the trip uphill to the Lodge. On this run, one of the women fell and twisted her knee. She had to be stretchered out to an ambulance and taken to a Hospital, 30 miles away, for observation. It was a several-hour process and the group was tired when they got back. The wind was picking up and blowing snow about. It looked very cold outside. The fire inside was warm and inviting.

 

The view from the lodge, over 13th Lake, is beautiful. It looks like a scene from the mountains of central Norway. The lake, set in a forest-clad valley with blowing snow at sunset, paint a beautiful and frosty portrait. In rough weather, you feel isolated in these hills and very glad to be snug and warm inside a lodge like this, with a warm fire.

 

We repaired to our forest room, for a shower and change of clothes before dinner. At 7 P.M., we returned and joined the group for mood adjusters, before indulging in the " monster buffet." I sampled some wonderful salmon, mashed potatoes and lots of other fixings. There was a soup & salad bar, and of course dessert and wine. The food was of very good quality. As usual, at Buffets, we overdid it. After dinner, some of the club played Charades by the fire. Others wandered off to the TV. Room. I sat and talked for a while, with friends, and then shot a few games of pool.

 

By 11P.M., we were tired. We set off through the dark, to our outpost in the woods. Although it was isolated, it is beautiful and quiet in the woods at night. We read for a while and turned in, tired with the day. Sleep came quickly and soundly.

 

On Sunday, we arose early and packed for the return trip. We dressed in our ski gear, assuming the others would want to take a last run before leaving. At 7:15 A.M., we met friends for Breakfast. The consensus was to go for a quick run through the forest and then saddle up for the return trip home. We agreed. It was 2 degrees below, windy and cold outside, with blowing snow. The thought of driving out of these mountains was on everyone's mind. Still, we came here to ski and the conditions were perfect.

 

After a brief and invigorating ski along the easier trails, we returned one last time, to our SkiHaus, changed and packed for the ride home. At the main Lodge, we joined up with some club members and set out in a small caravan. In this manner, if someone broke down or slid off of the road, there would be help available. I guess that is why covered wagons formed up, going west. The ride out proved easier than expected. We drove west along Rte. # 8 and then south on Rte. # 10, where we picked up the Thruway, in Amsterdam, for the remainder of the ride to Buffalo. It was sunny and cold, with dry road conditions. We only stopped once for coffee and gas. The ride home took about 7 hrs. and we were tired when we arrived in Buffalo, at around 4 in the afternoon.

 

Buffalo had been hit with a major storm on Saturday, the day before. About 12 inches of snow had fallen. By Sunday evening though, things were returning to normal. Our neighbor had even cleared out our driveway, with his snow blower, bless his soul.

 

Garnet Hill Lodge is a charming and comfortable Inn, with very good food. The ski trails are extensive and well groomed. The degree of difficulty ranges from "easy" to "very difficult". One of the downhill runs, which we avoided, is aptly named "skullbuster." Most of the trails are easily traversable by intermediate level skiers. This was our second trip there and we enjoyed it very much. The Heims are gracious hosts. It is a long ride from Buffalo, however, and we were tired out by the end of the weekend. Adverse weather conditions are also a consideration in planning your trip.

 

We thought that the next weekend we visited, we would either break up the drive, by leaving the night before, or stay an extra day at the Lodge. The skiing is terrific and the accommodations amiable and cozy. We will return again and so should you.

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(2,158 words)

Joseph Xavier Martin